“Aromatherapy is shamanism for everyone.”  Kurt Schinaubelt Medical Aromatherapy, Healing with Essential Oils.

I’m not at this point, comfortable calling myself an herbalist yet... I’m not sure when that will be... Will it be when I have finished classes, when I feel comfortable in a clinical setting when I am recognized by the American Herbalist’s Guild as a Registered Herbalist?  The point is, I do not claim, at his point to be an herbal expert, but a student.  As a holistic esthetician, I have been using, studying, and teaching about aromatherapy for at least 14 years. I grew up totally smelling like tea tree and lavender all the time, as my mother is a Naturopathic Dr. and essential oils were one of the may plant medicines used in our house on a regular basis.   I’ve learned in my herbalism course that as far as herbal medicine goes, essential oils are the big guns.  Meaning they work really well, really quickly but aren’t as gentle as say a water infusion or decoction (teas), or an alcohol extraction such as a tincture.  This means that essential oils are best used in acute healing rather than chronically, and they should be used with intention.  It is best every once in a while to switch up the oil you use regularly, for example, if you use rose day after day- year after year in your skincare, your body gets somewhat overwhelmed by it, and you may consider switching seasonally.  Because essential oils are highly concentrated, haste must be taken especially when consuming them internally.  Our liver is responsible for breaking these components down and because of the high concentration it can be quite harsh on the liver.  Do consider this when your well-meaning but un-trained friend who is selling essential oils recommends drinking grapefruit juice essential oil every day in your water to lose weight.  (This was a true story when I went against my own better judgement and actually got really sick)!   I am personally wary of companies that do push toward daily internal consumption such as adding to your daily water because I do feel this is marketing toward consumption culture, and not toward the betterment of the health of all.  I will leave that point right there for you and not say anything further regarding internal use here. My point here is that just because essential oils come from the earth, it does not mean they are harmless. 

Essential oils are highly concentrated liquid plant compounds.  They are produced by plants as a means to defend themselves, to attract the correct pollinators, and to send warnings to fellow plants.  Clinical and medical use of essential oils began in the early 1900s, of course, the use of aromatic plants has been around for centuries.  Essential oils provide clinically proven physiological and psychological benefits.  The chemical intelligence of plants speaks directly to our systems, almost like we are all living on this earth synergistically! 

Chances are you have tried an essential oil or two, or maybe you have an entire collection! But what should one look for when choosing an essential oil to purchase?  Will any oil be fine? The truth is, not all oils are created equally, and there are different qualities of oils.  It does not just boil down to “Therapeutic Grade”. Today, essential oils are having a real moment, and there are definitely lots of options. I wanted to put together an easy to follow guide on how to purchase the right essential oils for therapeutic use (meaning to treat or prevent a condition).  This is for inhalation, topically, and those rare instances when you may consider internal use.  If you are purchasing to make cleaning products, which essential oils are freaking amazing for, the following is not as important.  

These items should always be available either on the bottle, on the website, or easily by contacting the vendor. 

1. Organic

Because essential oils are so highly concentrated it’s very important that you purchase only organic essential oils for therapeutic use. Otherwise, along with concentrated plant material you will also be receiving concentrated herbicides and pesticides, AKA poison.  

1. Extraction method

There are multiple ways to extract the essential oil from the plant. Each plant has its own best extraction method, and this is not a one size fits all endeavor.   Distillation is a very clean method using both temperature and pressure for extraction.  Cold pressing is also a clean method using two marble slabs to press the oil from the plant.  CO2 extraction uses CO2 gas which turns to liquid in a pressurized chamber, as this pressure also breaks down the cell walls of the plant, the liquid CO2 extracts, then turns back into a gas and the sticky resin is left over. Solvent extraction is also known as “absolute”  (such as Rose Absolute).  This is done by using a liquid chemical to extract, in the case of essential oils, alcohol, hexane, ethanol, ether, methanol or even petroleum may be used.  Solvent extraction should never be used therapeutically (including topically) as there will always be some trace of the solvent left over. 

1. Country of Origin

This is important because the climate and soil conditions can alter the plant.  French lavender is different than English lavender and even has a different scent.  While English lavender is considered safe during pregnancy, Spanish lavender is known to be contraindicated.  

1. Botanical Name

The two-part Latin name of a plant is an exact description of what plant you are dealing with, every single plant on earth has a Latin botanical name.  This helps avoid any confusion as the common name for a plant can vary depending on who is talking about it. 

1. Part of the Plant Extracted 

This is important because different parts of the plant have different chemical constituents and different benefits. For example, cinnamon leaf is a stronger more intense cinnamon aroma, while cinnamon bark is spicier and can be more irritating on the skin.  They have different energetics to them and can be used differently for emotional purposes. 

What Else?

If these five factors are present, chances are, the vendor you are dealing with is better than most.  Finding a vendor you trust is important.  Other factors to consider include the environment the plants were grown in, you will most likely not find this listed on the bottle of course, but you may find some education on this from your vendor.  Storage of the oil, you want to purchase oils that are in dark, glass bottles. Avoid oils sold in plastic bottles or clear bottles.  Essential oils will degrade plastic, and light shining through a clear glass will oxidize the oil.  Always avoid fragrance or perfume, these compounds can be endocrine-disrupting, cancer-causing, and aside from that, they have totally hijacked our olfactory system changing our sense of smell! Avoid an “essential oil” labeled as an unnatural scent,  like a sugar cookie- there is not a sugar cookie essential oil, unfortunately.  I mention this because I have actually seen a “sugar cookie essential oil” on the store shelf! EEEK!   Avoid oils that have been adulterated by adding synthetics or blending with additional low-quality oils, mixing with a carrier oil, and not disclosing this information. 


Therapeutic Grade, and Pure


The terms “pure” and “Therapeutic Grade” can be confusing… of course if an essential oil is not pure it is not of good quality, it has been adulterated in some way.  The confusion comes in because there is no standardization for labeling essential oil as pure.  Just because it is labeled pure, does not mean it is high quality.  You have to trust the vendor by doing research, and checking for the 5 items in the above list.  The same goes for the term “therapeutic grade.” Generally, this is an agreed upon term in the industry that all of the above factors are followed, but not always.  Some clinical aromatherapists feel skeptical of companies that use this term.  I will leave that up to you to decide but again, do your research, rather than blindly trusting the term.  Once you start to use high-quality essential oils regularly your nose will be your biggest asset, just by sniffing a sample or a tester you can start to tell what is good and what is not.  

Final Thoughts

Just like with skincare, be careful of Amazon because you can’t be sure if care has been taken or if they are adulterated.  Amazon does not vet their vendors or the products they sell.  There is no guarantee that what is in the bottle is what is listed on the label.   I carry a small but growing selection of essential oils that I have vetted in both my brick and mortar and my online shop.  You can view them here.  

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Follow the directions below to be sure you are correctly using your stone.  

I love this skin-healthy paleo and vegan recipe as a holiday side dish or as a main course on a chilly fall evening.  

For me, the star of this dish is the brussel spouts, mostly because they are one of my favorite foods.  Brussel sprouts are high in vitamin C which is a cofactor in the natural production of collagen, it also help to protect the skin from UV radiation.  Cruciferous vegetables, like brussel sprouts contain compounds that may be anti-inflammatory, this is beneficial for every skin issue. They also contain high amounts of alpha-linoleic omega 3 fatty acids, our body needs a higher amount of these types of omega 3 fatty acids than the type found in fish, and brussel sprouts pack in a large amount.  Omega 3 fatty acids protect the cell membrane assisting in smooth, supple, firm skin.  

Sweet potatoes are rich in beta carotene which converts to vitamin A when consumed, this is beneficial for cell growth and regeneration. This translated to vibrant, glowing skin.  Vitamin E and C in sweet potatoes are both strong antioxidant that help to reverse damage like dark spots and fine lines.  

Pecans are rich in zinc, one of my favorite nutrients for healthy skin.  Zinc is a powerful immune system support that helps to control excess inflammation plus regulates oil production and cell turnover, all of these functions help to reduce acne is a powerful way!  

Cranberries are again rich in vitamin C which in addition to supporting collagen production and being an antioxidant, helps to reduce inflammation and support the immune system! I like to use fresh organic cranberries to roast in this dish as it is less sweet and does not contain sulfites or sugar, but these aren't always available so look for some without these additives.  

Avocado oil is used as it is a healthy oil that has a higher flash point.  Olive oil has a low flash point and oxidizes in high temperatures, this can have negative results and is best consumed raw.  

I hope you enjoy!  If you make it, tag me so I can see your beautiful creation! 

Servings 2-3 | Prep Time 10 min | Total time 40 min

INGREDIENTS
1 medium sized sweet potato cubed
½ lb brussel sprouts halved
½ C fresh or dried cranberries
½ C pecans halved
3 TBSP avocado oil
3 TBSP pure organic maple syrup
½ tsp pepper
½ tsp onion powder
¼ tsp dried sage powder
3 sprigs of fresh rosemary
½ tsp pink Himalayan sea salt to taste
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DIRECTIONS
1.Preheat oven to 425 degrees. 
2.Combine cubed sweet potato, halved brussel sprouts, cranberries, and pecans in a baking dish.
3.Drizzle avocado oil over the top
4.Add pepper, onion powder, and sage.
5.Roast for 20 minutes
6.Gently turn ingredients, add maple syrup and rosemary sprigs. 
7.Continue to roast for 10 minutes or until vegetables are slightly browned. 
8. Add sea salt 
9. Serve warm

A resounding theme in 2020 has been the lungs and respiration. From the international respiratory virus pandemic to George Flloyd and his last words, “I can’t breathe,” to the horrific fires all over the western United States. Interestingly grief and sadness are emotions often associated with the lungs.  
 
The lungs and skin are intimately related in many facets of medicine.  They are the only two organs that are directly exposed to atmospheric oxygen!
 
Does the skin breathe? Yes, it does! One of the main functions of our skin is respiration. It has been known since 1851 that atmospheric oxygen is taken up by the human epidermis. There are various cells in the skin that uptake oxygen and expel carbon dioxide.  
The skin cells require oxygen that they receive both from the atmosphere around them and the lower layers of the skin. Of course, because we are not amphibians, the contribution to total respiration is negligible. It is not the same action as when we inhale oxygen and exhale carbon dioxide. There is a robust connection between the lungs and the skin. They are the only two organs that are directly exposed to atmospheric oxygen!
 
Generally, the liver and the entire digestive system are intimately related to various acute skin issues. Traditional Chinese, Ayurvedic, and Western herbal medicines all regard a powerful connection between the lungs and the skin. Additionally, a study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology found that the amount of pollution women were exposed to correlated with the depth of wrinkles! We know that pollution and smoking damage the skin and weaken the lungs, and put us at risk for illness. Working to reduce our carbon footprint is one hugely important thing we can do to help restore the air, but on a more immediate basis, there are things we can do to support our lungs right now.  
 
Western herbs for lung support:
 
Thyme: A natural expectorant meaning it breaks up congestion and treats coughs, this herb is antimicrobial and helps to fight off infection.  Thyme tea with honey is fantastic! (contraindicated during pregnancy)
 
Elecampane:  Part of the sunflower family, this beautiful tall flowering plant is a favorite of many! This is a very strong expectorant helping to relieve mucus and congestion and soothing for coughs. This makes a lovely tea or can me infused into honey! (contraindicated during pregnancy and breast feeding)
 
Yerba Mansa: is one that can be used during pregnancy and is fantastic for cold and flu season. This beautiful herb can help to reduce congestion and inflammation in the mucus membranes!  This can be prepared as a tea or a tincture for lung support!
 
My favorite essential oils to diffuse for lung support:
 
Ravintsara: I can’t talk about this essential oil enough.  Inhaling it completely clears the respiratory tract.  It is powerfully antiviral and decongestant. 
 
Rosemary: breaks up congestion as well as reduces inflammation.  Bonus:  rosemary is also known to boost brain power!  I diffuse this often while I am working!
 
 
What are you doing to support your lungs and to support your skin?  Share in the comments!

Restorative Fire Cider Recipe Fire Cider is a fold herbal remedy popularized by herbalist Rosemary Gladstar, but has been made for generations as a general health tonic, and is especially helpful to boost immunity during cold and flu season.  It helps to warm the body, aids digestion, lowers blood sugar, boosts metabolism, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and more! 







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Ingredients

• organic unfiltered raw apple cider vinegar
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 10 cloves of garlic, crushed or chopped
• 1/2 cup freshly chopped horseradish root
• 3 organic jalapeño peppers, chopped
• 1 organic lemon, zest, and juice
• 1 medium organic orange, sliced
• 6-8 sprigs of fresh rosemary (dried will do if you don't have fresh)
• 3 Tablespoons peeled and chopped ginger root
• 2 Tablespoons freshly chopped turmeric root (1 Tablespoon turmeric powder if you don't have fresh)
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne powder
• 2 Tablespoons whole peppercorns
• 1/4 cup dried whole elderberries
• 1/4 cup raw  local honey

Less is more here, since you're trying to get people to visit your site.

1. Add elderberries, peppercorn, ginger, horseradish, onion, garlic, jalapeño peppers, lemon zest, orange, and juice, rosemary, turmeric, and cayenne powder into a one quart-sized mason jar. 
2. Cover ingredients with Apple Cider Vinegar, be sure to completely submerge to prevent it from going bad.
3. Shake the jar and place it in a cool, dark place. Every two days, shake it again.
4. Allow to do its magic for one month, at the end of the month, strain the liquid and transfer to a clean jar.
5. Add honey to the liquid.
6. Taste your fire cider and add more honey if needed until you reach your desired sweetness.
7. Store in a sealed container in the refrigerator or a cold, dark place.
8. Drink 1-2 Tablespoons daily or when needed.

 
As our country begins to open back up from lockdown status during the novel corona virus pandemic of 2019/2020 many are starting and continuing to don face masks to help prevent the spread of disease, to protect those most vulnerable.  This is great but many healthcare workers are already experiencing unwanted side effects on their skin when wearing face masks during an entire work shift.  It doesn’t seem like face masks are going away anytime soon so let’s take a look at what you can do to promote vibrant beautiful, glowing skin beneath the cover!
 
Problems you may experience:
 
Acne: There are a few major reasons we might be seeing more breakouts in the area of the face mask.  With cloth and other materials sitting on the skin, there is a chance that harmful bacteria can get trapped.  Additionally, just like wearing a too tight bra, when elastic, metal and tight material is pressing into the skin, this leads to a lack of lymph flow. Our lymph system is like the sewage system for our body, it carries waste away from the cells through small vessels or tubes.  When something is pressing into this area, it’s the same as stepping on a hose, the cellular waste becomes backed up.  Instead of a clean, flowing river below the surface, we have a sludgy dirty pond...  It’s easy to see how this can manifest as congestion and breakouts on the surface.    Furthermore, stress increases hormones like cortisol which raise oil production. when skin is already inflamed and excess oil is produced, this oil gets trapped in the pore and mixes with dead skin cells.  This mixture is a perfect lunch for the bacteria that resides in an acne lesion. 
Dehydration:  Dehydration during use of face masks can due to constantly steaming the skin with your breath.  We exhale about a cup of water a day, and while some steam on the face can be great, this constant humidity on the face is actually quite dehydrating.  That along with the physical rubbing of the material on the face breaks down the invisible barrier on the surface that protects and lubricates our skin.
Sensitive skin: Stress hormones also trigger inflammation and the skin is no exception to this response. Just like with dehydration, the material rubbing on the face is irritating.  Our skin’s immune system sees it as an attack and responds with an inflammatory cascade. 
 
 
Solutions:
 
1. Be gentle with your skin.  Especially now, when stress levels rise, our skin becomes hypersensitive.  This is a stress reaction of the immune system in our skin.  Now is not the time to be burning your face off with harsh exfoliants. This type of controlled wounding is a bad idea when the immune system is already feeling taxed… not to mention that we want to support our immune system in all ways possible right now.  Instead nourish it with skin loving oils such as Remedy Treatment Oil from Color Up. The organic macadamia, rose-hip, hempseed, and jojoba oil blend will assist in repairing the damaged outer barrier and soothe irritated skin. 
 
2. Eat plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables and stay hydrated.  A hydrated body leads to healthier more resilient skin.  Mineral rich vegetables nourish the nervous system which will in turn nourish the skin.
 
3. I’m a fan of incorporating CBD skincare into your regimen because it can address all of these problems.  CBD is antibacterial and is effective at assisting the skin in the uptake of antibacterial peptides, meaning that it helps your skin to ward off unwanted bacteria naturally.  CBD is not only moisturizing without clogging pores, but it is also highly anti-inflammatory!  Browse CBD skincare HERE. 
 
4. LED Light Therapy has been a game changer in my home routine.  The benefits of LED were discovered by NASA as plants were taken aboard the space shuttle and administered with LED light which proved their theory that the light could produce energy in the cells, helping them to grow faster even outside of the presence of the sun.  Research was then done on human cells, to find the same results!  There are now several peer-review studies showing the health benefits and safety of LED light therapy.  Today, red LED is used in hospitals for wound repair, and in spas for it’s incredible anti-aging effects.  Red LED produces energy (ATP) in our cells promoting healing and regeneration.  Additionally, red LED greatly reduces inflammation and promotes healthy circulation. All of these properties are incredibly healing for skin that is being rubbed raw! The LightStim for Wrinkles contains infrared, red, and amber lights to target different depths of the skin for more effective healing.   Blue LED is interesting because it doesn’t penetrate as deeply into the skin, but it packs a huge punch! Molecules called chromophores which reside inside of the bacteria in an acne lesion (Propionibacterium acnes).  These chromophores actually absorb the blue light and this action creates oxygen within the lesion.  As the Propionibacterium acnes is anaerobic, meaning it cannot live in the presence of oxygen and so of course it is killed.  The LightStim for Acne device has both red and blue LED lights to kill this type of bacteria and to reduce inflammation. Purchase HERE. 
 
5. Face massage is one of the best things you can do for your skin daily.  This can be done with a massage tool, or just the tools you came with, your hands! Facial massage increase circulation which brings blood, oxygen and nutrients that our skin cells need.  It helps to bring cellular waste away through stimulation of lymphatic drainage (think of this like taking out the trash).  Face massage helps to soften tension in the muscles… you never realize how tense these muscles are, or how often facial muscles are used until you start to massage them! Make sure to apply a small amount of skin healthy oil to the skin prior to the face massage to provide slip (don’t grease it up too much you still need a bit of tug).  Watch some simple at home facial massage techniques here.
 
Our skin needs some extra TLC right now, and the great thing about that is all of the above tips mentioned also help to tap into the mind-body connection and turn on the parasympathetic nervous system.  This is the part of the nervous system that comes on when we relax, it’s the opposite of the stress response.  Give them a try, drop a comment to let me know how it goes!

​Avoiding Inflammatory Triggers 
Inflammation is a precursor to just about every skin condition whether it be aging, pigment, sensitivity, acne, rosacea, eczema and more!  Avoiding inflammatory foods is your first step to the skin of your dreams!
 
Dairy: Dairy is one of the most inflammatory foods that you can eat and for many, dairy can be a trigger for acne, eczema, psoriasis, and a multitude of other skin concerns.  Dairy is packed with natural hormones which can affect acne, not only that but it affects our natural hormones and can lead to more serious disease.  
Sugar I heard in a lecture once that sugar ages us just as much if not more than the sun.Sugar increases inflammation throughout your entire body by spiking insulin.  Sugar is dehydrating and increases oil production. In addition, sugar releases enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.  Sugar actually attaches to collagen fibers and weakens them, making you more susceptible to sun damage! 
Alcohol Alcohol consumption impairs your sleep, causes inflammation, is dehydrating, wreaks havoc on your liver and more.  Drinking can also deprive your skin of vital vitamins and nutrients that it needs to function properly! 
Gluten The effect of gluten on different people is a highly debated topic in the nutrition community.  For those sensitive to gluten and those with celiac disease, gluten can have a negative effect on gut health and can be an instigator for leaky gut.  The gut-skin connection has been studied extensively and has shown to be directly linked.  
 
 
 
Supporting Skin Integrity with 
Probiotics and PrebioticsA healthy gut microbiome supports healthy skin in more ways than one, a healthy gut supports a healthy immune system, hormone function, stress response, healing response, and even response to sun exposure!  Both probiotics like those found in fermented foods such as kimchi, sauerkraut, kombucha and prebiotics like garlic, onion, asparagus, honey, apples yams, and bananas work together to optimally support the gut microbiome! 
Essential Fatty Acids Called essential because they are essential to get in your diet as the body does not produce them naturally, EFAs are really important for hydrated vibrant skin.  Omega 3 fatty acids are especially important to incorporate into the diet for healthy skin. They actually fortify the skin cell to prevent water loss/dehydration.  Great sources of Omega 3’s are fatty fish, nuts and seeds such as walnut, chia, HEMP, and flaxseed, and vegetables such as brussel sprouts, kale, spinach, and watercress! 
Fiber Fiber helps keep the gut healthy and digestion regular.  If food is not properly digested, toxins and waste accumulate in the body and lead to inflammation as well as improper nutrient absorption.Great skin healthy sources of fiber include, avocado, chia seeds, apples, broccoli, butternut squash, and oats.  
AntioxidantsAnti-oxidants fight oxidative stress also known as free radicals.  Your body makes free radicals as it processes food, sunlight, and toxins like smoke, pollution, and alcohol. Free radicals are unstable cells that attach to and damage healthy cells. This damage to cells can lead to wrinkles, pigment spots, 
Antioxidants bind to the unstable free radicals, making them unavailable to bind to healthy cells in the body.  Antioxidant rich foods include blueberries, strawberries, beets, kale, spinach, peppers, raspberries, red peppers, goji berries.  
Minerals Minerals are like the unsung heros of skin nutrients.  Minerals like zinc, copper, selenium, magnesium, calcium, potassium, and silica support wound healing, protect from UV radiation, maintaining and building collagen and elastin, regulating hydration levels in the body, calming and healing acne.  Minerals can be consumed through supplements, but the best sources of mineral rich foods are nuts, seeds, green leafy vegetables, sea weed, mushrooms, and more!
 
Take it from an esthetician who has an obsession with nutrition, the food you eat affects your whole body.  Your skin is not a separate organ running on its own, it is intertwined with everything else,  Make sure to avoid inflammatory foods for an optimally glowing complexion and eat your way to vibrant vivacious skin with plenty of organic nuts seeds, healthy fats, fruits, and vegetables!